Tassie, there and back

Tasmania, my goodness, where do I start? I arrived here on a Friday. So one and a half weeks ago and more has happened than in the five weeks prior. It especially made me feel like I was finally in Australia, although Tas is only such a small part (a little bigger than Belgium) of the country and often not even counted as Australian.

Its countryside is mountainy, green and wild, in many parts untouched by humans. Therefore, it is usual to follow just manmade tracks to not destroy nature, or yourself with all those animals out there. I don’t think we have driven along a straight roadonce, wherever you go you not to brave windy curves and popping ears, as you keep climbing and descending heights. Half of Tasmania is one big national park with lakes, mountains and impenetrable cold rain forest.

For the most part of our visit Manu and I stayed in Roland with Robin and Tracy. It is located in the mid north of the island close to the three mountain tops, as Mount Roland which we could see from Rob’s house. Manu and I took a few trips into the surrounding area and I had my horse right around there, which you have already read about. The landscape is rock and tree dominated and I discovered three new roadsigns just in the area. 

Seeing so many animal warnings you can imagine I must have seen them. And I did. As we pulled out of the Cradle Mountain national park area after doing the two hour Dove Lake circuit (this is a walk) a wombat crossed the street just to the left of us. They are cute cuddly things those Wombats, but very compact and able to break down your car if you aren’t careful. 

On the same day winding our way back to Roland we discovered someone with their camera on the side of the road and Manu did a quick turnaround. At a chance like this I didn’t bother putting on my shoes and snuck out to photograph the even cuter and rare echidna - or “echnida” or “edichna” as Manu calls them frequently. To my surprise it didn’t run away as I drew closer but simply went about it’s business digging in the dirt with its long nose. I wouldn’t mind taking one of them home either!

My last and most surprising encounter with wildlife was a snake wriggling away from Nadja and I on the small part of the Montezuma Falls trail which we did. I held my breath and watched the deadly (seriously) black snake wind away from us. Wow is all I can really say. Besides these rather exiting discoveries I was able to watch foals chase over their meadow and about ten calves chewing deliciously rich grass.

Compared to mainland Australia it rains and greens a lot on the island. In wintertime they even get snow over snow here which sometimes crushes pensioners dreams, who thought they could settle down here. Although the past days down in Strahan have been around the twenties (can’t imagine the excitement of locals), just a week ago Manu, Robin and I were driving through 50 kmh winds and up to 72kmh gusts. Woah, I thought I was gonna be blown off the street! Blown onto the street was a huge branch which we luckily missed! Robin got out of the car and removed it with the help of another driver.

Since there is rain forest around Strahan you can imagine how much water they get through the year. It is due to this that fires are very rare (though one did happen just a few days ago a little up the coast - through the car’s ventilation system we could still smell the smoke.) Our boat cruise we were taken to a small boardwalk circuit into the rainforest where a 2300 year old Huon pine awaited us. It was already broken and fallen down but new trees sprouted off the log. Huon pine is a very special timber which is now under protection. Only those logs which are washed down the close Gordon river may be brought to saw mills. Huon pine trees are filled with a very special oil containing the wood forever, as water or insects cannot penetrate it. Even a dead pine will preserve forever. In the area a log had been found which died 15000 years ago but actually had been existing for 38000 years. We also saw a Huon pine group which was 800 years old and close to the small town Roseberry there are pines sprouting off 10000 year old roots. 

2300 years old Huon Pine

Yes, I wrote down all these facts because they simply amaze me and such long living trees/roots are only possible because of the missing fires. One cigarette bud could set all those valuable trees on fire easily because of the oil they contain. The rain forest close to Strahan is on the World Heritage list whilst fulfilling seven of their categories. To get on this list only one category is needed and the only other site fulfilling seven of the criteria is the Taj Mahal I think. Walking over the board walk I could see how thick the forest is. Trees were even growing over the walk in parts and the Montezuma Falls trail for example goes along an old train track line, which is now overgrown by moss and plants. It is just a super exciting area down there I think.

The main reason Manu and I went down to Strahan (pronounced Strawn) was Nadja Brückmann from Würselen, who works there. Tracy also has a job there and so Manu was able to stay in her Cabin while I slept on Nadja’s floor. The village is a seasonal place with lots of work for Uni students and backpackers, as it lives only on tourism. Only a few houses are actually occupied by locals, all the rest are flats, apartments and little houses for workers or tourists to live in. There are about five restaurants, one pub, a bottle shop and an IGA. The young workers through parties at their own houses or take a boat/car out to the beach to light a huge bonfire. The Esplanade is the main road along which all important shops are located. Most of them are the restaurants or receptions for tourist activities. It is possible to book boat cruises (I went with Manu and Tracy and we got a great price due to her employment). There are two available cruises, as two companies dominate the city. 

Hell's Gates

Sarah Island, an old prison

The main, bigger one is Federal and the one we went on has a different name, which I forgot. The cruise leads through “Hell’s Gates” a narrow passage between the land and a small islandy landmass which caused many ships a big deal of trouble in the old days, when navigation was an ordeal. There is a mile wide opening on the other side of the small island misleading to the conclusion of passing there, but even between Hell’s Gates the water is only 50 meters deep and a large sandbank waits treacherously on the other side. Maquarie Harbor is a huge natural harbor about six times the size of Sydney Harbour. It sports many beautiful white beaches like the popular Ocean Beach and Macquarie Heads. After going out in the ocean for a short time the cruise boat turns back and heads down the Gordon River. On the way we were served dinner and then walked it off on the previously mentioned boardwalk.

 At the spot of the old Huon Pine our guide Kate enthusiastically told us all about the trees and I am certain especially Mama would have loved to hear her talk and learn about Huon Pine as well as all the other trees Kate could point out. The whole cruise took about five hours and to just let you know a tiny bit of a discount in the end for three people we spent less than the normal ticket of one adult person for the seats we were upgraded into.

Large part of Macquarie Harbor

Another attraction we took part in was the scenic flight in a seaplane which Manu surprised me with. I had heard lots about the pilot beforehand from Tracy and even the lady at the reception let me know he was pretty, after admiring my old purse and wondering wether it was snake or crocodile leather. But oh my God! Could I have ever imagined how incredibly good looking that pilot is? Nadja and I turned straight into thirteen year olds once she had seen him, too, when I went back the next day to get a photo. “So it took you one day to ask? I don’t bite.” Haha, Ben, well I doesn’t happen to me often that someone is so gorgeous I am lost for speech. Needless to say he turned us into giggling dreaming little girls once he was out of listening distance. If he was at least an idiot and not so kind and funny it would be much easier for us to accept he has a girlfriend.

Oh, but the flight itself was fun too, haha. It takes us around the same way the cruise ship went just way further up the winding river, with a thirty minute flight there and back. I do have to admit I was glad when landing each time. The headphones were pretty heavy and I got a horrible head ache up there. Yet, the view was gorgeous and breathtaking. And even if Ben hadn’t been so beautiful I couldn’t have answered anything to his “Emma, feel free to serve drinks and snacks anytime.”, because I was so stunned. (Most of Strahan’s people have established to call me Emma). The boardwalk the plane landed at was very short and showed us a small water fall and a few people exploring out there.

 Gordon River

Macquarie Heads, a popular spot for sandboarding

Concerning attractions I myself seem to have been one. James, a friend of Nadja’s, works at the View 42, one of Strahan’s nicer restaurants, where Manu and I went to eat. As James told me later he walked back into the kitchen after we entered to shout out a codeword letting all the male staff know a rare pretty girl had entered the restaurant. I took no notice of kitchen hands and chefs leaving their work space one after the other to have a look. “Did you like the soup you had?”, Rihan, one of the Kiwi chefs, asked me later in the evening as we were on our way to the beach party after hanging out at the pub. 

In general I noticed a few guys winking and smiling at me as did Monty’s unbelievable beautiful and cool girlfriend Danielle. Both of them are from California and James is Texan, while Jake and Rihan are “the two Kiwi chefs”. I also met Ralf, a German from close to Berlin. When we weren’t at other people’s houses or the pub Nadja and I ate forbiddenly much chocolate and grooved off to the over playing channel V, playing lots of music and music videos. The new MTV so to say. On this note I have a new suggestion: “Rude” by MAGIC. It’s suuuuch a good song. Do me the favor and check it out. 

Having said all this you might be able to imagine how sad I was to leave Strahan today and to be leaving Tasmania back to Melbourne tomorrow. At least friendly faces will expect me there as well as the late package from home :)