Cambodia is mango shakes and lemon juice all the way!!! While we are slowly making our way over bumpy sandy roads with our thirty people bus on our eight hour trip to Siem Reap the thirty minute stop at a small lunch restaurant is very welcome, though their mango shakes are quite poor compared to the many others we sampled along the way.
After our so thought beach holiday which was particular unbeachy because of the trashed yet crowded waterfront we spent one evening in Phnom Penh, the capitol. Our plan was to find a tailor for some costumes for Papa's play, however, most shops were still closed, their owners hungover or they didn't speak English! In need for a translator we hung around in the English section of a book store and while asking one lady for help, Len from the Philippines jumped in. Her English is exceptionally good and you can tell she teaches in a local school where she is also initiating a play with the young kids. Our conversation about costumes caught her attention. She took us to an English speaking tailer but all three of us were unpleasantly surprised when they asked for 230 dollars for two simple suits. While we thought this would be the end of our encounter with Len she offered to take us to a close by mall to look for readily made clothes and the shoes I was in desperate need for. However even in the mall many shops were already closing and so we followed Len to a rather chic restaurant (still only paid 25 dollars for three meals and six drinks!). We spent about three hours there chatting and laughing and already decided to meet again upon our return to Phnom Penh for a round of karaoke.
So far Siem Reap seems to be overflowing with offers and things to do beside the temples and we are considering to stay even another day longer.
The temples themselves were amazing! Chantrea who we know through a row of people organized our tuk tuk driver who picked us up at five in the morning. This way we reached Angkor Wat, the most famous temple, just in time for sunset and were able to explore this biggest complex during milder temperatures (we are looking at 28 degrees at six o'clock in the morning). It definitely is a very impressive sight! A long terrace leads through the gate towards the main entrance although they are many smaller entrances along the sides of the main complex. One of the six libraries is situated outside the temple and many people say around it to pick nick their breakfast. Horses were grazing freely on the huge lawn but we made our way straight past the temple walls, behind which buddha statues, libraries, steps, old carvings and many tourists awaited us. The side is incredible difficult to describe, but those of you who will see our photos (which are on the big camera so i cant upload them) might be able to understand the fascination better.
Next on our route was the South Gate of Angkor Thom and the Angkor Thom temple Bayon. Bayon itself is symmetric as well, but seems a bit wilder and massive, due to the closeness of the towers, which Are decorated by huge smiling Khmer faces. These were photographically attractive as well as many doorways and window frames. The temple was of complete different structure and style than Angkor Wat which might either have to do with one being Hindu and one being Buddhist or the different times they were built in.
Next up was Ta Keo - extremely unspectacular as it is covered in construction sites, so we went for a rather crappy lunch break instead, before heading off to Ta Prohm, the Tomb Raider temple.
(The complimentary history video of the hotel states that "this is real Indiana Jones territory" while the subtitles underneath read "this real amazon territory." Similar to when the commentator said "the temple was built by the Khmer people" and the subtitles disturbingly dubbed with "the temple was built by the American people". There were many way funnier subtitles I sadly don't remember now.)
Ta Prohm is a real beauty and of another very different style from the other two famous complexes. The ruins are completely taken over by nature. Giant tree roots hold the old stone walls in a tight grip. Too tight sometimes, which is demonstrated by many piles of stones and barred areas for visitors. The huge trees tower up above doorways and partly have to be supported by wooden or metal constructions. It is very impressive to see nature regain its territory. The temple, and one tree specifically known as the tomb raider tree, are famous for playing location in the so called Lara Croft movie. Feel free to just find Ta Prohm Tomb Raider in youtube to see the magnificence in moving pictures.
After the nine hour temple exploration we returned to the hotel and signed up for a massage. In our time before that we just relaxed in the room and i suddenly received a "hey girl, are you free tonight?" per text. It was a Cambodian number and only few people here had mine so I replied cautiously asking who it was. During a quick back and forth I found out it was our driver Somana from the day. Papa advised me not to talk to him but Somana had been very genuine and friendly and I was too curious. So I said I had plans with my dad but what he had in mind and to my surprise he invited me to play volleyball with him and his friend. Earlier when Papa went into the bank I had talked to Somana about his hobbies which included volleyball. Curious I told him anout a street match I watched in Kep and that I would have loved to join in but they were all guys and so I didnt know if girls where allowed to play. He had said they were but he never ever so one play and that they just didn't.
So when he invited me to a round of Cambodias favorite sport I couldn't say no! Of course I asked many questions about location and people and Somana then picked me up after my massage. He took me to the sports fields close to his school and from what he told me and the looks I was given by everyone I probably was the first girl to play sport there. Although Chantrea originally said he wouldnt come he did along with his two brothers and another boy so we ended up being way more people than I thought! It was warm but all the boys there play in Jeans and I was wearing long pants as well. Of course I am not good at volleyball at all and they always laughed when I failed. However, they also laughed when I did well so I don't know how to sort that in. When I made a mistake I always heard Chantrea say "Emmmaa. Eemmaa you are weak. Emmaaa you have to try harder!" It was pretty funny and once we were done I was so pumped I could have kept going for a while (by the time I was home though I was absolutely flat). Somana took me home again in his tuk tuk an although I was absolutely prepared to pay he insisted it was a free ride and I should also take a cols bottle of water. This volleyball game might have been one of my favorite experiences in Cambodia. It was great to hang out with the locals and I felt absolutely fired up after a round of physical exercise. So good!
The next day asked for a somewhat early rise and we met our friend Chantrea to head off to a trek to a waterfall as early morning exercise. Just as we headed into the forrest we stumbled upon two Malaysian girls who were quite lost. I recognized them from the day before when we had taken a photo of them at Angkor Wat and so they joined our little group on the 100 minute hike up the mountain over tree roots and big stones. Chantrea cheerily counted down our progress every 100 meters. When reaching the waterfall we were minorly disappointed. Due to the prior dry season there was nowhere to swim, though it was possible to take an icy shower underneath the small streams of water drops. Despite Papa's assurances they would dry my jean shorts were noticeably wet after the 90 minute hike back down. Although I felt really fit during the hike after sitting in the car I was pretty flat and hot. Still we took a walk through batay srei, one of the temples which is further away from the main complexes. I wasn't wearing shoes and my feet were mainly burning up so I didn't mind us spending little time there.
I obviously was the lamer one out of our Azarvan duo. The heat got to me easily and quickly wore me out so we had to stop back at the hotel for about an hour before taking off to our next destination.
It was the Tonle Sap lake and with one of its floating villages, Chong Kneas. I came back to life during our boat ride to and the. Through the village. The sun was setting and painted our surroundings in a beautiful glowy hue. Most houses have been built on old barrels and they are tied to lon sticks stuck into the lake floor, so they dont float away. Everything has to be done by boat. Go to the floating supermarket by boat, the floating school or church by boat, visit a neighbor by boat. We also came past curious things like floating flower shops and a battery boat! In the morning it collects all the empty car batteries people use to power up their houses and in the evening he brings them back charged - against a fee of course. Up on a viewing platform we went ahead and photobombed an asian group photo which was smartly positioned facing away from the sunset so every face would be nice and dark. What does it matter, all look the same anyway right? ;) they were very sweet people though and invited us to really join the photo. The ride back led through the dark past a few man made fires and was accompanied by the faint melody of a Khmer song which Chantrea sang for us over the noise of the motor. Much nicer than our dinner entertainment.
The two Malaysian girls had told us about a buffet dinner with traditional Apsara dancing, though sadly I never got their message as to which of the many restaurants with said programs they ha booked into and so Chantrea drove us to any one of them. While having a discussion with the manager as to what was the big problem of our driver sitting with us (in Cambodia drivers can eat for free when they come with their customers, but only if they sit in a special room designated for drivers) , Ting Ting all of a sudden popped up beside me. We had gone to the same restaurant after all! To all people headed in Cambodian direction, don't go to an event like that. Dont't go to a buffet at all! It is not refilled with fresh food and just sits there the whole time its disgusting. The dancing is just a tourist attraction and not special at all. We were lucky as the nice company made up for it.
That night and our next morning were predominated by shopping! The night market and the old market make for nice souvenir spots but you need patience and a strong mind to stand the repetitive goods and still be able to search for what you are after. Your steps are accompanied by a steady vendor mantra.
"Ladiee!!! Need pan? Ser, I have odder sie. You wanna buy, ladiee?? Plea, buy. Come insie, ladiee, plea. Have look, ser! Number one kollity, no number two, ser! Good pry. Ladiee, you my firs customer, cannot make cheaper. I make three dolla cheap, good day for you good day for me. Is same same, ser!"
Its always nice to stumble across the odd very nice or funny vendor. Sometimes they are so sweet and able to laugh about themselves you really dont feel bad foe buying with them. Others dont even try at all and walk past you while whiningly saying "Buy somesssing!", but not even paying attention. Or when they already approach you with huge puppy dogs and a voice like they have just had their leg cut off (but both are always still there). In my opinion especially the night market is worth a visit. Its not as pressingly hot as during the day and even at night the streets are bustling with movement. Its a great spot to do your shopping and to squeeze in a foot massage. It is also worth to tip if someone gave you good service. People are highly underpaid and often dont see the money you are technically paying ffor them. We have seen women in any shade of thankful, but when they conduct a dance of excitement in front of you it's really hard to top it.
Our last day in Siem Reap started with shopping as I already stated and a fish treatment during which a bunch of fish eat off the dead skin off your feet. After this I did my hair and applied some of the first make up in a while and we headed out to the temples again, this time with a purpose. Photo shooting! Papa had me wear one of the colorful new dresses we bought and made me pose between the walls and doorways of Bayon. One Cambodian lady kindly asked if she could take a photo with me and then Papa asked a few monks if they could have a photo with them. I felt a tiny bit special, when one of the monks also handed his cell phone out to get the picture as well. ;) Chantrea was being a good boy and tagged along as Papa's photography assistant wearing our backpack, my hat and carrying the extra lens. Time was running short before sunset so we had to hurry to Pre Rup for a view of the sunset. One outfit change and four quick photos later we were climbing up massive and many steps. Considering how much smaller the Khmer are than us, they really were no smart stair builders considering how long they are in height and how short in width.
Once on top we had a great view over the forest around the temples above which the sun was setting. In this spot I heard and gave the most awesome concert of my life. Chantrea sang for us again and with the Khmer sounds it fit so well into the setting of the old temple which held us so high above the ground. I sang as well just before the temple was about to close and I haven't sung for so long that it felt great!
The time in Siem Reap was probably my favorite. We spent three and a half days there and it felt good to settle down in our gorgeous hotel as well as meeting those great locals! The temples are truly stunning but the city itself also captivated me more than Phnom Penh did.
So soon I will be home!!
Skipper
PS: Chantrea is song ha. Right?
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